^ Diyarbakirevi is a beautiful and wifi-connected cafe tucked away in the old city, near to the recently restored Armenian church, and the world's only minaret supported on four columns.
These plump stuffed sheep stand outside cheese shops.
^In the warren of tight and covered laneways that crowd next to Hasan Paşa is a narrow lane of metalworkers that shoot sparks past your ankles and into the shallow gutter as they grind and sharpen blades. There are clasped collars with long spikes, scythes, trowels, and pans. I try to take pictures looking like I am not taking pictures, because it is deeply embarrassing to take pictures. For now I will accept complicity with the tourist's gaze, meek, predictable. I'm mostly solitary, and these are the things between the walls that the city wants you to encounter.
^Underneath these arches, inside one of the Eastern towers of the walls, there is the most delicious fresh Ayran with mint leaves.
^ ^^ A small museum dedicated to Kurdish and Armenian musicians that is a perfect excuse to see the traditional layout of the inner courtyards, and flanking rooms, of affluent domestic dwellings. The museums seem all to stop abruptly, offering a single room.
